11 October: Ferried back to the mainland (Oskarshamn) from Visby last evening, spent the night there, and then drove south 100 km to my present hotel—a lap of luxury sort of place that I’d have never chosen but through neglect let the agent do. I’m by nature too ascetic for this elegant spa sort of thing, and don’t like the people who seem thrilled with it. But I’ve walked around and seen some interesting trees so the stay isn’t wasted, just the frivolous stuff. On a whim I pulled into a little town called Mönsterås along the way to the hotel. As I got to the downtown, I discovered that it was ancient almost in the Visby sense: narrow...

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